Chomolungma
- the mother Goddess of the World
- rises majestically to its supreme
height of 8848m/ 29,028ft. on the
Nepal - Tibet border dominating the
Sherpa region of Khumbu in the South
and the open Rongbuk Valley in the
North. Our climb of Mt. Everest in
this program is from the north side
of the mountain following the North
Col and North East Ridge route.
Seven earlier attempts to climb Mt.
Everest were on this route before
further expeditions from this side
was made impossible due to world War
in 1945 (except for two Chinese expeditions
in 1965 and 1975 who put several climbers
on the summit on both occasions) and
China's occupation of Tibet beginning
in the early fifties. It was only
in the late 70s foreign mountaineering
expedition teams were allowed to return
to Everest. The Iranians were the
first team issued a permit to climb
the mountain in the spring season
of 1979 followed by Japanese in autumn
1979 and 1980. Japanese climbers Yasuo
Kato and Takashi Ozaki reach summit
in the 19080 spring season expedition
to become the first non Chinese clambers
to reach the summit via this route.
Approach
to the Base Camp:
Group preparation of our ascent of
the North East ridge route begins
in Kathmandu. All trip participants
assemble in Kathmandu as per the trip
itinerary (find below) and drive by
bus 5/6 hr. on the Kathmandu - Lhasa
highway to arrive at Kodari (Tatopani)
where Nepalese customs and immigration
formalities are completed. Clearing
through the Nepali immigration and
custom formalities, we walk across
the Friendship bridge and , meet the
representative from the China Tibet
Mountaineering Association (CTMA)
waiting with jeeps and truck for a
short drive us to the Tibetan side
of the border town Zhangmu 7544ft/2300ft
(Khasa in Nepali) through an uphill
winding road. This night we spend
in Zhangmu at a guest house provided
by the China Tibet Mountaineering
Association with all meals provided.
Next day, we drive to Nyalam 3790m/12432ft
and stop here for a day to get acclimatized.
Before the building of Kathmandu - Lhasa road, Nyalam known as Kuti in
Nepali was among the several passes
Nepalese traders used to enter Tibet
for cross border trades. Nepalese
and Tibetan traders gathered here
with their merchandise comprising
sugar, tobacco readymade Indian good
from Nepal and wool, yak tails and
salt from Tibet. After Nyalam, our
next before Everest base camp is Xegar
4050m/13285ft (also known as New Thingri)-
the political, administrative center
of Tingri area. This was a fort town
in the past. The fort has now turned
into ruins from the excesses carried
out by red guards during the cultural
revolution period. We stop in Xegar
for one more day to get better acclimatized
and next to drive to Mt. Everest base
camp situated at 5,150m/16,892ft.
On the way to the base camp, we visit
the famous Rongbuk monastery - gateway
for Everest expedition dating back
1921, and ask blessing for the expedition's
safety and success from the resident
lama and the monks.
Pooja
And Climbing
Arriving at the base camp, we set
up our tents, dining and kitchen tents,
erect our Lhapso ( prayer site) altar
with climbers national flag and Windhorse
prayer flags strung to it and conduct
a Pooja to begin our climbing above
the base camp at an auspicious advised
by the lama from the Rongbuk monastery.
After a good Pooja, with yaks we move
to the Advance Base Camp ( ABC) 6,500m/21,320ft
following the East Rongbuk glacier.
Once acclimatized, this camp is our
main base for the climbing above.
The camp will have a complete kitchen
and dining set up. Two temporary camps
are set to arrive at the ABC. From
ABC, we tackle some crevasses and
some face climb to get up on the North
Face at 7,000m/ 22,960ft. Above the
North Col, another camp at 7,850m/25,748ft
is placed before the final camp is
set up at 8450/27,716ft. From the
final camp, the summit is two km away
along the NE Ridge. Two main technical
rock steps known as first step and
second steps are overcome before the
summit ridge is reached. Fixed line
are put to assist climbers on the
rock steps. Our Sherpas will help
you carry oxygen cylinders, food,
fuel, cooking utensils and assist
your effort throughout the climb.
After the summit attempts, we clean
our camps above the base- camp and
bring back all equipment and garbage
back to base-camp for proper disposal.
Making sure that we have not left
any garbage on the mountain, we ride
into jeeps and return to Kathmandu
to end the expedition with a group
farewell dinner.
If your first attempt on the
summit is failed due to weather and
other conditions, you will be offered
oxygen and climbing Sherpa support
for a second attempt.
Included in the Expedition
Service Cost:
Airport - Hotel - Airport transfer;
Hotel in Kathmandu 3 star standard
for 3 nights in twin sharing bed and
breakfast basis, Customs clearance;
Transportation and accommodation in
full board basis for Kathmandu - Zhangmu
- Base Camp and return, Sherpa support
( 1 Sherpa per climber ), cook, kitchen
boy, porters and yaks, food for trek,
BC and climb; Group equipment for
the climb, Camping Service including
tents for BC / ABC and climb, kitchen/dinning
tent, toilet tent, chair/tables; Oxygen
- 7 cylinders per climber 3 cylinder
per Sherpa with complete mask &
regulator set, all permit fees, wages
/ allowances, personal insurance coverage
for the liaison officer, climbing
Sherpas, kitchen staff and porters.
Not Included in the Expedition
Service Cost:
Main meals in Kathamndu,
personal equipment, personal insurance
including emergency evacuation, Nepal
visa fee (single entry US$30 &
double entry US$ 50.00 - not required
to pay for stay less than 2 nights
), and airport tax while departing
from Kathmandu airport (US$ 23.00)
and other services other than those
mentioned in the service inclusion.
Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2-4: Shopping, formalities and
expedition briefing in Kathmandu
Day 5: Drive to Zhangmu
Day 6: Drive to Nyalam Day
Day 7: Rest day in Nyalam for acclimatization,
Day 8: Drive to Xegar,
Day 9: Rest in Xegar for acclimatization
Day 10: Drive to Everest Base Camp
Day 11-13: Set up base camp kitchen,
dinning tents and perform Pooja
Day 14: Move to Camp I
Day 15: Move to CII
Day 16: Move to ABC
Day 17-18: Set up ABC
Day 19-57: Climbing and return to ABC
Day 58-59: Rest and clean ABC
Day 60: ABC to BC.
Day 61-62: Clean BC
Day 63: Drive to Xegar
Day 64: Drive Zhangmu/ Kathmandu
Day 65: Trip ends |