Mt. Amadablam (6,857m/22,490ft.) |
'A True Himalayan classics' Andy Fanshawe & Stephen Venables - writer Himalaya Alpine-Style
Area: Mingbo Valley
Days: 35 days trip-31 days trek/climb, 4 days kathmandu
Dept. Ex. KTM : 15 Mar, 05 Aug
Per Person Cost:
Amadablam is the most popular and perhaps the most beautiful of all mountains in Nepal - viewed irrespective from any of its perspectives. It rises impressively a few miles across Mt. Everest & Lhotse over-looking the famed Tengboche monastery - which guards the entry into the Khumbu Valley.
The name Amadablam refers to an amulet box (dablam) worn by a mother (ama) in Sherpa / Tibetan language.
Our ascent route on this mountain is through the classic South West Ridge route which was first climbed by Michael Ward, Barry Bishop, Wally Romanes and Michael Gill on 13 March 1961.
Base Camp approach and the Climb:
To begin our climb, we assemble in Kathmandu and then fly to Lukla for the 11 day pre climb acclimatization trek to Kalapathar 5545m/18250ft for a close-up view of the South West face of the Mt. Everest - before arriving at the Amadablam base camp. Arriving at the base camp, we set up our camp on big leveled grassy field at an altitude of 4,500m/14,760ft, which is a traditional pasture-ground (chisa) for yaks from Khumjung village.
Above base camp we place an advance base camp at 5,200m/17,056 and two higher camps above ABC to prepare the summit push.
Onward camp I 5,815m/19,070ft, graceful moves are required to overcome some exposed rock sections known as 'Yellow Tower' to reach camp II at about 6,000m/19,680ft. This is a tiny camp barely enough for 2/3 tents on a very exposed section of the the ridge.
The climb after camp II to camp III (6400m/20,992ft) involve some superb alpine rock climbing, ice gullies, corniced ridge and ice wall. After camp III, a final pitch perfect 50 degree snow and ice face leads to the summit fo Amadablam.
Our Sherpa team will lead the route and fix lines and help set up the camps above base camp. However, eligibility to sign up for this climb require that you are competent in alpine ice-climbing technique and have experience climbing on mixed terrain with packs.
Included in the expedition service cost:
Airport - Hotel - Airport transfer; Hotel in Kathmandu 3 star standard for 3 nights in twin sharing bed and breakfast basis, Customs clearance; Sherpa support ( 1 Sherpa for four climbers), cook, kitchen boy, porters and pack animals, food for trek, BC and climb; Group equipment for the climb, Camping service including tents for BC and climb, kitchen/dinning tent, toilet tent, chair/tables; Flights Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu; Oxygen for medical purpose,, all permit fees, wages / allowances, personal insurance coverage for the liaison officer, climbing Sherpas, kitchen staff and porters.
Not included in the expedition service cost:
Main meals in Kathamndu, personal equipment, personal insurance including emergency evacuation, visa fee and airport tax and other services than those mentioned in the service inclusion.
Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla
Day 3-11: Trek to Kalapathar and then arrive base camp
Day 12-30: Climbing
Day 31-32: Return march to Lukla
Day 33: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 35: Trip ends.
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